Our Suggested Itinery for 1 Week In Edinburgh
Introduction
There are few places in Europe better than Edinburgh to spend a week full of culture, nature, and everything in between. The city of 'Auld Reekie' - an old Scottish name for Edinburgh - has something for everybody, including excellent food and dining, shopping and world-class attractions. The best part of the Scottish capital is that is both a bustling capital and a rural village at the same time - and with a week it is possible to explore both these aspects of the city.
Accommodation Tip: Go for an apartment rental, as this offers good value for money based on the length of your stay. Some lovely Georgian townhouses can be let on a weekly basis; as a suggestion look for something around the trendy neighbourhood of Stockbridge, full of bars and restaurants and only a 15 minute walk to the city centre.
Day One
Get some fresh air, work off the jet lag, and explore one of the seven hills of Edinburgh. It is a short but intense walk to the top of Calton Hill, just off the east of the city centre, where unbroken views of the sea and the city can be found.
There is an old observatory at the top of the hill, not generally open to the public. The Parthenon-like structure is the National Monument, a memorial to those died in the Napoleonic wars. Often it is called the 'folly of Edinburgh' due to the fact that the structure is incomplete - it was intended to be a full replica of the Parthenon but money ran out halfway.
Back down on street level, head down Princes Street and aim for Saint Andrews Square, named after the patron saint of Edinburgh. The square has a newly refurbished centre complete with cafés and benches.
Surrounding the square on all sides are buildings that used to be either banks or insurance offices. Today the uses are mixed, still including banks but also restaurants and shopping, such as Harvey Nichols.
Leaving the square to the west is George Street, lined with luxury boutique shops and trendy cafes. One place to visit is the Dome Hotel, with its beautiful domed ceiling in the bar. The Standing Order, another pub found further along, is locally infamous for cheap drinks, but the interior of the pub is quite interesting as it was formerly a bank branch - you can dine in former offices or even the bank vault, complete with the heavy metal doors.
George Street ends on another square at the west end, Charlotte Square. Unfortunately, the centre of this square is not open to pedestrians, but the Georgian architecture surrounding it is no less impressive.
Dining Tip: Enjoy dinner and live jazz at 80 Queen Street, just to the north of Charlotte Square.
Day Two
Start your morning on the Royal Mile; after enjoying the classics at Edinburgh Castle, spend some time at Camera Obscura. Notable as one of the city's more haunted buildings, ghosts are scared away in the daytime by the many colourful and interesting exhibits that span several floors in this old schoolhouse. There are wonderful views from the top floor, where you will find the camera obscura itself - a "camera" made of mirrors and lenses in the roof of the building and project onto a display in a small room. A guided explanation of the camera room is included with your ticket.
Across from Camera Obscura is the Scottish Whisky Heritage Centre; whisky is one of Scotland's major exports and is recognised as some of the best whisky available. Learn the distilling process and enjoy a 'wee nip' at the end of your tour. Amber restaurant is located in the centre and is known for excellent food and snacks.
Down at the bottom of the Royal Mile is one of Edinburgh's most unique sights: the Scottish Parliament. Its incongruent architecture is very derisive amongst local opinion, but it is a must-see. Hidden behind the parliament on Holyrood Road is Our Dynamic Earth, an unusual-looking structure that houses Edinburgh's science centre.
Dining Tip: In the middle of the Royal Mile is an underground restaurant often missed by tourists: Monteiths, near the Storytelling Centre. Reservations recommended.
Day Three
Spend the day at Edinburgh's beach, Cramond. Cramond is a tiny seaside village that is now a part of Edinburgh; wedged between the Almond River and a series of golf courses, this section of the shore is a favourite with dog walkers and children of all ages.
During low tide, it is possible to walk along a concrete pathway out to Cramond Island; however, be sure to know the tide times and return to the mainland well before the posted times.
Dining Tip: On your return, hop off the bus early at Haymarket Station and head up Dalry Road to the modern, delicious cuisine at First Coast. Reservations recommended.
Day Four
Begin the day at the National Museum of Scotland, which is actually two museums in one: the Museum of Scotland and the Royal Museum.
The Museum of Scotland is focused on the history of Scotland and the influential figures (both good and bad) that contributed to the Scotland that exists today. The Royal Museum extends a more generic reach on subjects such as art, technology, and science.
Both are free entry, including admission to the special exhibitions. The exterior architecture of the building was controversial when built but is a unique design that tries to blend in with its surroundings.
Just south of the National Museum is one of the largest parks in Edinburgh: the Meadows. Its tree-lined paths criss-crossing the massive green square are a pleasure to stroll, and it is guaranteed you'll see something different every time you visit: a tai chi class, a few students playing football, or a few locals sunning themselves in the sun.
The north side of the park is witness to a new housing development, the Quartermile; one of the shops in the new development, Peter's Yard, sells Swedish bread and other fine goods that make good picnic fodder.
Dining Tip: Simple and wholesome pub food can be found at the nearby Meadow Bar.
Day Five
The centre of the city is today's first destination: the National Galleries. The main galleries are free but special exhibitions are not included in the admission price. Both galleries are exemplary in terms of their architecture and their ability to put together such spectacular exhibitions from their massive collection.
Once you've finished exploring the sights, jump on the free bus that will take you from the National Galleries to Dean Gallery and the National Gallery of Modern art. These relatively small attractions are hidden away in the greenery northeast of the city centre and are often missed by tourists.
Just steps away from these galleries is one of Edinburgh's most spectacular outdoor spaces: The Water of Leith. This small river starts in the nearby Pentland Hills and wanders its way down into Edinburgh, snaking alongside the west and north sides of the city before depositing its cloudy contents into Leith harbour.
It is a perfect example of how Edinburgh balances a healthy and cohesive relationship with nature. The walk from the galleries to Stockbridge is only an hour or so; the trip is dotted with gardens, sculpture, and picturesque views of hidden villages and unknown neighbourhoods, so there is certainly no need to rush. For those who are really keen, the walking path extends another 3-4 miles from Stockbridge to the Shore in Leith, where a number of pubs and restaurants await.
Dining Tip: Take advantage of Stockbridge's namesake eatery, The Stockbridge Restaurant, and enjoy a charismatic and old world dining experience.
Day Six
Spend the day exploring the village of Roslin, south of Edinburgh. Roslin is home to the famous Rosslyn Chapel, featured in Dan Brown's book The Davinci Code. It is worth nothing that although the book's depiction of the church is inaccurate, the actual story of Rosslyn Chapel is just as riveting.
The chapel has a large basement that has been sealed off and the current owner of the church, the Earl of Roslin, refuses to let anyone inside. Listen to one of the free lectures by the tour guides at the chapel to hear more.
Afterwards, explore Roslin Glen in the valley below the chapel; the paths are relatively clear and easy to explore.
Dining Tip: Your bus will drop you in Saint Andrews Square on return; pop into Tiles Bar, on the south edge of the square, for a hearty Scottish meal.
Day Seven
The morning is a great time to head out to South Queensferry, home to the Forth Bridges. While there is a more recent road bridge built, the Forth Rail Bridge is well known throughout the world for its engineering and of course its iconic appearance. It is not possible to walk across the rail bridge, but the road bridge allows pedestrians and conveniently has a fantastic view of the estuary and rail bridge.
After returning to town, spend some time exploring some of Edinburgh's literary history. While there is a Writers Museum, a Literary Pub Tour, and a Literary Bus tour, the best place to find your own muse is one of the city's cafes. J. K. Rowling, author of the famed Harry Potter series, made a couple of these cafes quite popular.
The first is the Elephant House, on George IV Bridge. Besides a great menu for lunch, snacks, or dinner, the café has one of the best views of Edinburgh Castle through the back windows, especially at night. It can be quite busy here, but it might just slightly less busy at Rowling's other haunt, the Black Medicine Coffee Company. On South Bridge, the cups of brew here are enjoyed by tourists just as much as locals.
Dining Tip: Curry fans should head across the street and up South College Street to Saffrani. Otherwise, just grab a snack and the cheap and cheerful Piemaker to the north on North Bridge.
In Summary
With a week it is possible not only to spend time exploring each of the areas of Edinburgh, but also to take excursions further afield. The city is a wonderful array of balance: nature vs. urban, modern vs. old world. Be sure to see both sides and admire the versatility and resourcefulness of this European capital.
